xk8 jaguar
#21
What is not recommended is to have the transmission "power flushed" which could dislodge any debris which have built up.
#22
#23
I can't remember the post title off hand, but Brutal posted to the effect that he'd had situations where customers had come in to his work place for a gearbox oil change and/or flush, and had reported problems with their gearboxes afterwards, blaming it on the dealer that had done the oil change.
On one occasion he suspected that the car may have problems after an oil change, so he kept the old oil as a precaution.
The car refused to engage reverse afterwards, so he put the old oil back in and the car was fine.
The post may have been in a thread centred around the "sealed for life" issue, and if i can find it again i'll point it out.
Edit:
Found it, Brutal's post on first page.
Discussion of 'sealed for life' and synthetic fluids
On one occasion he suspected that the car may have problems after an oil change, so he kept the old oil as a precaution.
The car refused to engage reverse afterwards, so he put the old oil back in and the car was fine.
The post may have been in a thread centred around the "sealed for life" issue, and if i can find it again i'll point it out.
Edit:
Found it, Brutal's post on first page.
Discussion of 'sealed for life' and synthetic fluids
Last edited by Roadhogg; 05-20-2012 at 10:33 AM.
#24
I can't remember the post title off hand, but Brutal posted to the effect that he'd had situations where customers had come in to his work place for a gearbox oil change and/or flush, and had reported problems with their gearboxes afterwards, blaming it on the dealer that had done the oil change.
On one occasion he suspected that the car may have problems after an oil change, so he kept the old oil as a precaution.
The car refused to engage reverse afterwards, so he put the old oil back in and the car was fine.
The post may have been in a thread centred around the "sealed for life" issue, and if i can find it again i'll point it out.
Edit:
Found it, Brutal's post on first page.
Discussion of 'sealed for life' and synthetic fluids
On one occasion he suspected that the car may have problems after an oil change, so he kept the old oil as a precaution.
The car refused to engage reverse afterwards, so he put the old oil back in and the car was fine.
The post may have been in a thread centred around the "sealed for life" issue, and if i can find it again i'll point it out.
Edit:
Found it, Brutal's post on first page.
Discussion of 'sealed for life' and synthetic fluids
I would not be happy having to put contaminated oil back in my gearbox.
What I did end up with in effect, was a partial oil change and a new filter. By only dropping the pan, fitting a new filter and replacing the fluid in the pan, all the fluid was not renewed, but maybe that's not a bad thing. It's certainly better than having badly contaminated fluid and a restricted filter, that at 110k was living on borrowed time.
#25
None of that thread was specific to the ZF 5 speed transmissions in our XK's. Some was related to S-TYPE, others to the later ZF six speeed, and the old oil story wasn't even on a Jaguar.
I didn't get what car or gearbox Brutal was referring to when describing replacing the old oil, i don't think he stated, or if he did i missed it.
Does the S-Type use a different box?
From my own perspective i don't see how i have much choice but to at least try a filter and oil change, as i suspect the oil may well be past or approaching it's sell by date. If that's that's case it's a kind of devil and the deep blue sea situation.
It just made me decide to be prepared by keeping the old oil in case the seals couldn't handle the fresh oil, and also be prepared for the possibility i may have to drop the gearbox, either to cure an existing leak, or in an attempt to get the box to retain new oil, by replacing the output shaft seal, if i can.
Last edited by Roadhogg; 05-20-2012 at 11:29 AM.
#26
True.
I didn't get what car or gearbox Brutal was referring to when describing replacing the old oil, i don't think he stated, or if he did i missed it.
Does the S-Type use a different box?
From my own perspective i don't see how i have much choice but to at least try a filter and oil change, as i suspect the oil may well be past or approaching it's sell by date. If that's that's case it's a kind of devil and the deep blue sea situation.
It just made me decide to be prepared by keeping the old oil in case the seals couldn't handle the fresh oil, and also be prepared for the possibility i may have to drop the gearbox, either to cure an existing leak, or in an attempt to get the box to retain new oil, by replacing the output shaft seal, if i can.
I didn't get what car or gearbox Brutal was referring to when describing replacing the old oil, i don't think he stated, or if he did i missed it.
Does the S-Type use a different box?
From my own perspective i don't see how i have much choice but to at least try a filter and oil change, as i suspect the oil may well be past or approaching it's sell by date. If that's that's case it's a kind of devil and the deep blue sea situation.
It just made me decide to be prepared by keeping the old oil in case the seals couldn't handle the fresh oil, and also be prepared for the possibility i may have to drop the gearbox, either to cure an existing leak, or in an attempt to get the box to retain new oil, by replacing the output shaft seal, if i can.
Have you determined the area of the leak yet?
#27
From 2003 the s-type used the same ZF six speed transmission as XK XJ which use Shell fluid. Early s-type used Mercon fluid and our early XK's used Esso fluid. To confuse things even further, early stype manual boxes used the same fluid as our early XK 5 SPEED auto's
Obviously i hope that my gearbox doesn't give me any new issues after i cure the leak and change the oil.
Have you determined the area of the leak yet?
Since i intend to get the steering rack rebuilt as part of repairs to the front end, the car will be on axle stands with no front wheels on it for a week, so i figure that'll be the time to attempt the gearbox.
It could be some weeks before i get the £1000 together to do both jobs.( front end and gearbox)
I stress that i only mentioned Brutal's comments by way of considering any possible/potential problems that i may have to take in to account when attempting to do my own repairs, so i'm not disagreeing with a word you've said.
In fact you've raised my spirits, because i was much more concerned earlier than i've been since you said this:
There is no concern with leakage caused by fresh oil.
#28
I've just realised which car you're working on. I'm sure you'll get it to how you want it to be in the end, and even enjoy the process.
I'm believe you're taking the best action regarding the transmission fluid change. I wouldn't worry about it causing problems, mine is now at 130k and I plan having it changed again if it gets to 160k. I suspect the leak you have will be easilly resolved when you undertake the trans. service.
I'm believe you're taking the best action regarding the transmission fluid change. I wouldn't worry about it causing problems, mine is now at 130k and I plan having it changed again if it gets to 160k. I suspect the leak you have will be easilly resolved when you undertake the trans. service.
#29
#30
Thank you X100, seems i inadvertantly bought a restoration project.
Or that's what it amounts to for someone with my limited mechanical knowledge.
I hope your advice will allow jaguargary to get his car running properly, and i've certainly learned from it.
I hope he lets us know.
Or that's what it amounts to for someone with my limited mechanical knowledge.
I hope your advice will allow jaguargary to get his car running properly, and i've certainly learned from it.
I hope he lets us know.
#31
#33
From the online manual:
The corroded connectors X100 mentioned may be causing an illegal code, which in turn is triggering the gearbox error message.
If the error code generated is deemed as potentially serious by the system, the car may try to protect itself from damage by switching off the current to the plugs, and refusing to start.
Hopefully X100 is still around today and can advise you better.
The position of the gear selector lever is detected by the range sensor; a system which consists of two sensors (switch systems).
(1) The rotary position switch, which is located on the RH side of the transmission case and is coaxial with the selector shaft.
(2) The D to 4 (micro) switch, which is mounted in the 'J gate' assembly.
When the selector is moved across the gate to engage 4, or back from that side towards D the selector cable does not move. In order that this change of state be registered by the TCM the D to 4 switch is incorporated.
The rotary switch in isolation provides a 4-bit code, which, when added to the D to 4 switch becomes a 5-bit code. The TCM will make a failure judgement if it detects an 'illegal' code.
(1) The rotary position switch, which is located on the RH side of the transmission case and is coaxial with the selector shaft.
(2) The D to 4 (micro) switch, which is mounted in the 'J gate' assembly.
When the selector is moved across the gate to engage 4, or back from that side towards D the selector cable does not move. In order that this change of state be registered by the TCM the D to 4 switch is incorporated.
The rotary switch in isolation provides a 4-bit code, which, when added to the D to 4 switch becomes a 5-bit code. The TCM will make a failure judgement if it detects an 'illegal' code.
If the error code generated is deemed as potentially serious by the system, the car may try to protect itself from damage by switching off the current to the plugs, and refusing to start.
Hopefully X100 is still around today and can advise you better.
Last edited by Roadhogg; 05-20-2012 at 03:27 PM.
#34
Next to each gear position on the shifter is a led indicator. This must be lit to allow starting. With the ignition on and foot on brake, moving the gear lever....have you got a red LED lighting up next to each position sellected?
*P
*R
*N
*D
If not, the rotary switch on the side of the transmission is not giving the signal to allow starting. This could be the switch itself being faulty, or as I mentioned before corrosion at it's connection to the harness near the firewall.
*P
*R
*N
*D
If not, the rotary switch on the side of the transmission is not giving the signal to allow starting. This could be the switch itself being faulty, or as I mentioned before corrosion at it's connection to the harness near the firewall.
#35
ok the light on p lights, if you put it in to r no light, and if you go in to d from r to n thats when you get the gearbox fault come up, and when you pull away it is like pulling away in forth gear, i did notice that the light would light up if you went p to d but soon has you go into r gearbox fault, so do you think this is the cause of the starting problem has well
#37
I still suspect rotary switch or connector.
This is the switch which is on the side of the gearbox. You can see the plug connector which goes up to the rear of the engine bay.
JAGUAR XJ8 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ROTARY SWITCH 0501209953 BREAKING SPARES | eBay
Trace the cable to it's connection..... separate the connector and clean the pins. If this does not cure it you will need diagnostics to get a fault code.
This is the switch which is on the side of the gearbox. You can see the plug connector which goes up to the rear of the engine bay.
JAGUAR XJ8 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ROTARY SWITCH 0501209953 BREAKING SPARES | eBay
Trace the cable to it's connection..... separate the connector and clean the pins. If this does not cure it you will need diagnostics to get a fault code.
#40
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