I would like to get contact info for someone who re-programs control modules for a 1997 XK8. Any info is appreciated.

 

Larry,

Presumably it's the ECM (Engine Control Module) you want re-programmed?

Adding why you believe it needs re-programming and where you are located could help get responses.

Graham

 

I am having issues with the brake lights and shifter solenoid so I believe my security module may be the problem. I replaced brake switch and that did not help. My convertible top is inoperable so my body control module might need some work. The car was in a flood if that helps on diagnosis. I am located in the north central US. Thanks

 

If it is a flood car and the water go to places it should have not I would prob not spend more money on it. This car hates if the battery is a little low on output, put water on parts that should not see it, eeeks, not good.
Where did the water get too?

 

The modules that were submerged are probably damaged electronically and reflashing is not likely possible.

You might try contacting ASI and asking what modules they can test, or just look for used replacements that match the VCATS numbers on the sticker in the trunk, if that still exists.

 

I should have added that I agree with brgjag in that the car is probably not worth spending money on. If you purchased it after the flooding incident you will have a salvage title which makes resale difficult and the value below market, which is low to start with.
It's likely that problems will keep on appearing. I would attempt to sell whatever was not submerged or keep this one for parts and buy another one.

 

I want to eliminate the top speed limiter. How do I do that?

 

If you really want to do this, I have gotten flood cars to live, I buy from the insurance auctions. Most of them were 350Zs, Audi TTs, and yes, a Jag XK8.

Depending how deep the water was, remove the complete interior,(seats, door, side panels, and carpet) and set it where it can dry for a couple weeks, preferably outside, under a roof, but not covered in any way. Remove all the seat switches, and control units under the seats. Depending how deep the water was, you may be looking at ebay or salvage yards, for new gauges.

Drain the engine of all fluids, as well as removing the trans pan and filter. If the engine oil, and trans fluid is milky, you are rolling the dice at this point.

Get a battery, and hook it up to the starter, with a switch, so you can take the compression of the engine. Remove all the coils, and plugs, and shoot a little oil, in each cylinder. Install a compression gauge in each cylinder one at a time, and spin the engine about 5 times, with the throttle plate open, and a screw driver shoved down it, so you won't need to grow a third arm, for the compression test. Make sure all the compression, is between 10% and 15% between the lowest and highest cylinder. If you have one or two cylinders considerably lower than the rest of the cylinders, it means the engine was running when it hit the water, and probably has a couple of bent rods, from trying to compress liquid, and the engine is scrap.

Look inside the transmission, if the engine passed it's test, and spray about 6 cans of brake clean up where the clutch baskets are. Brake clean dissipates rapidly, so it won't do anymore damage, than the water has already done. Let the trans drain for a day, so you have a 50% chance that the clutch facings don't come apart.

Remove all the little square(Bosch style) relays, in the engine compartment and the trunk, and throw them away. Remove every other control unit the car has, except the ABS control unit(it is usually water tight) and try to take the covers off. If the cover won't come off, drill an 1/8" hole at the two top corners, not entering the control unit any more than just enough to make the hole. Buy about five 5 gallon buckets, with secure air tight lids, and 50lbs. of rice. Fill one bucket up with rice, and bury all your control units, and seat switches inside. Put on the lid, and let it sit for a couple weeks undisturbed.

Clean the bottom of all the fuse boxes with plastic safe electrical contact cleaner, and buy new relays. They cost about $7 each, a little more for the 5 prong relays.

Put the car on jack stands, in case you haven't done it by now, as high as you can safely and evenly get the car to set. Wipe off as much of the goo from inside the trans as possible, and replace the filter, and pan. Fill the trans. It should take about 5 liters, before it starts coming out the fill hole.

Once you have reinstalled all the control modules, and relays, reassembled the top of the engine, and replaced the oil, and filter, and antifreeze, the messy work starts.

I am not rich, so I use Castrol Import transmission fluid, because it has the spec that our transmissions need. Buy about 8 five litre jugs. They cost about $20 a piece. Get a couple large clean drain pans, and get an electric pump, to put in one of the pans.

Remove the lower trans cooler line from the radiator, put a small hose on it, and put the hose going into the now empty rice bucket. Fill the large drain pan, with the electric pump in it, and put the outlet hose from the pump, into the fill hole on the side of the trans. Try to pack around it as best you can, because there is going to be some pressure building up in the sump, depending on the size of your electric pump. I have a pretty decent size pump, so the trans doesn't cavitate too much, while the engine is running. Since the engine will only be idling through the rest of the trans flush procedure, it won't burn the fill hose.

Start the engine, and put the shifter in reverse, and quickly start the electric pump. Let the engine idle through the whole process.(This procedure works best with 2 people) There should be a fast stream of milky trans fluid going into the 5 gallon buckets, and your friend should go through about 2 five litre jugs, before you put the shifter in drive. Then you should use another three jugs, with the car idling in drive.

Shut off the engine, and the electric pump. Let the car sit over night, and drain the trans pan into one of the buckets, and take a sample with a clear glass. If all you see is clean trans fluid you should be OK. If you see clean trans fluid, with a lot of dark specs(clutch lining), you will either need to rebuild the trans, or get another. If everything is OK, then fill the trans according to the repair manual.

Drain and fill the differential, and grease everything that has a fitting on it, and flush out the brake system and clutch system. If this method is successful, reassemble the interior, buy a new battery, and do a hard reset on all the control units. There are posts on how to do this. Drive the car until the engine is warm, and change the oil and filter again. If this method is not successful, don't throw much money, if any at the car for new control units, and instead part it out to get what you can of your investment back.

I have been lucky, and all the flood cars I have reconditioned have survived without any problems, but I was taught by an old mechanic, no longer with us, how to correctly resurrect a flood car.....Be cool....Mike

 

Hi to all.
I have a flood damaged car. 2001 XKR. Was submerged in Fresh water.
Yes it has a rebuilt title and its value is low. Here is my experience with the car.
The former owners insurance reluctantly repaired the car. They spent more than 80%of the cars value on repairs and under Florida law it has to have a 'rebuilt Title'. They replaced all the interior, removed all the water, replaced all of the fluids and electrical boxes where needed. Surprisingly most of the control modules survived after being dried.


So how does the car run? Great.
Do I have lots of electrical issues? No more than other Jaguar owners.
How is the body holding up? Some rust spots under the car but average.


So I have a very nice XKR for very little money.
The only problem I can attribute to food water is that I had a rear hub bearing failure. Replaced the whole hub from a 2003 XJ8. Cost me $15 from the local breakers yard.
I also had a passenger seat module fail. Replaced from the same XJ8. Cost $9.


To sum up.
If you are a DIY mechanic, and Jaguar owners should be, water damaged cars can be a inexpensive entry to Jaguar. Also your local breakers yard and ebay can keep you on the road. If you are lucky and live near a 'You Pull and Pay' yard they do not have a premium for Jaguar parts. They have a common parts price structure for all the cars in the yard. Their web site is A1 and you can easily fid out if they have your part.

 

The big difference I see, is that someone else took the risk and did the work for you, and the guy starting this post is out blowing in the wind by himself.

I own a 99 XK8 with over 90,000 miles, and I have found NO rust, even with it up on the rack, and changing the trans.

As you have read the actual procedure, and the things that can screw you, I wouldn't recommend buying a water damaged car to fix on your own(many states give you a clear title, so no value is lost), unless you are financially able to take it in the shorts, without being too financially ruined.

All it takes is the car to be running, when it hits the water, and most of the time you are screwed. As a rule of thumb, if there is water in the airbox or intake, expect to install an engine, and if the interior has mold on it, walk away.....Be cool....Mike