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the cam shaft covers are notorious for being overtightened and causing leaks usually around the front and rear lower areas i added a bit of permatex in these areas when i replaced mine . there is another boot kit for the plugs i believe for a honda that all you need to do is trim the length a little and is about 1/3 the price . (the gaskets look like a long looped piece of black spaghetti btw and crimp easily ) . when replacing the thermostat housing look into replacing the rear bolts with hex head bolts will make it easier to remove at a later date if needed . theres a place in england that has a good refinishing kit for the tops just used it on mine tho it was the lighter tan instead of the dark its covering it and looks quite good . if you have an upholestry shop near id have them tackle the seats they can be repaired and redyed but it is a very tedious time consuming job . alot of 99's in the bone yards for the door panels and rear panels mine has always been here in the south usa so no rust issues so no ideas there .
Boxing day saw my father, Jack, and I in the driveway looking into the Jag's misfire, reported as a coil problem on No2. With an aggregate of about 100 years of DIY car maintenance between us ( and the two 84 year olds reminiscing about the days when your austin 7 needed a full de-coke every 10,000 miles ), we moved no 2 coil to no 1 cylinder to see if it was the coil or the wiring. The computer confirmed that the fault moved, so it was definitely the coil at fault. A second-hand one was ordered from Ebay.
With a couple of hours to kill, the Golf's (see previous pic of the driveway) misbehaving choke was stripped, freed-off and rebuilt. Electronics are so much easier than these old 'automatic' mechanical units with 5 calibrated springs and eighteen moving parts.
The new coil arrived on new year's eve and after 10 minutes fitting it, we fired it up and had 8 working cylinders. So smooth. After clearing it, the engine light stayed off. Result. There's still a bit if a misfire between 1500 and 3000 rpm, but that's probably down to the mixture of new and 2 year old fuel and maybe the duff lambda probe that awaits replacement.
Stamford: Vanity plates are not so easy to come by over here, so anyone with a name like David Harry Potter might like it, it's valued at somewhere between £300 and £800 apparently.
Today I thought I'd see if the Boracol on the roof had killed off the green growth. Well, it looks like some of it had definitely died off. A scrub with some top-tech brushes (see pic) with warm water and 'flash' loosened up some more of the growth and turned it into a sort of mud. Washing with a hose didn't get it off very well, so I tried the upholstery nozzle on the wet and dry cleaner with hot water and 'flash' cleaner in the water. Amazing result... see the pics...
With the roof looking a bit better, I turned attention to the boot lid handle which had broken off all its mountings and rubbed through the paint as it hung from the number plate light wiring. It made the car look even more neglected. Having removed the inner carpet from the boot lid the 8mm studs were easy enough to undo and strip of the remaining plastic. Then, using expoxy resin left over from the boat repair, and having roughed up the plastic, the studs have been glued back into the plastic handle. If it works, great, if not, then a second-hand one is cheap anyway. A bit of polishing with some Farecla G3 got rid of most of the rub marks on the paint. Slightly disturbing was that removing the number plate revealed unused number plate holes that let water into the boot lid.
Phase one, to make it look respectable on the driveway and stop further deterioration is well under way. Phase two has to be to get it mot'd, for which I'll need a front subframe and a lambda probe.
I may, as it has been, suggested be a little on the foolish side of sensible with this one. On the other hand, adding this XK8 to the pile of ecologically unsound scrapped vehicles didn't seem right given that the Mrs has been recycling everything from milk top bottles upwards for the last 20 years. I have started less promising projects and won the battle.
We will see. I quite liked that it hadn't been molested or half bodged by anyone else. All the opportunity for bodging will be mine.
It does run, and it drives nicely, until the coil creates a misfire, then it goes into get me home slowly mode.
Part one was to get it home. Attached a couple of pics. I was surprised at how big it is. I usually use this trailer when I take the Triumph Spitfire on a hill-climb or sprint, but this dwarfed it.
Then there's a pic of it sitting in the driveway between the boat (new floorboard and outdrive repair project, nearly finished) and my son's MK2 VW Golf that he wants to modify for competition.
Roll on retirement, so many interesting things to do and so little time.
Crikey - that fills the trailer. Good job we only had a mile to go.
Even in the driveway it takes up a lot of space.
Saving a car as beautiful as an XK8 is God's work. Good luck,
It's been a while. Owing to the weather, Christmas and family commitments, the Jag has seen little progress. Son's girlfriends car being written off by a driving-too-close idiot on the M25 didn't help.
Anyway, I have managed to re-fit the boot/trunk handle, after polishing out most of the scratches, and I've removed the passenger seat to look at the rust. I'll post some pics after the weekend. The poke it with a screwdriver test confirmed the existence of corrosion, the screwdriver passing from inside the car to the driveway with little resistance. A local engineering firm were happy to provide an off-cut of steel (in return for doughnuts), so now just a weekends' cutting and welding to plan. The driver's seat doesn't work, so that's going to be a challenge to remove. The drivers seat controller works the passenger seat, but I got too cold to go any further with that one on that day. It doesn't help that I can't get the Jag in the nice warm garage, it just won't fit in the space taken up by a TR6.
Haven't checked the secondary cam chain tensioners yet, must do that, I'm sure it doesn't take long, and it is so tempting to warm the car up (now that it's running on 8 cylinders) when you're freezing your parts off while working inside the car.
Despite being only 4deg C, the boot handle/trunk has now gone from this
Boot handle as it was when dug out from under the hedge...
Via this...
Boot handle with epoxy resin mounts
To this...
And after the handle had been polished and refitted. Not perfect, but it'll do for now.
Today, we managed to get the passenger side carpet out and see the real size of the rust hole in the floor. Had to remove the centre console and the sill trim finisher. There's a good youtube video on how to get the central console out in 5 minutes. Why did it take me 30? Good news though... it's only the usual place, no rust in the gearbox tunnel or by the rear suspension points.
Passenger floor - look you can see the driveway
I couldn't find much in the way of detail or pictures about getting the sill trim finishers off, so I took a short video and posted it on Youtube at
the three bolts holding the sill finisher are under this logo strip in the middle of the trim. The trim finisher has to come off as the carpet is stapled to a hook held on by it.
It's been a busy year so far, so until today there's been little progress on the Jag. However, today saw the front subframe removed. It takes a while! It's a logical enough process though.
It started with getting the front wheels off. It took two hours. The first was spent trying to get them off the usual way, from alongside the car. Then the second hour saw us jack the car up, loosen the wheel nuts, put it on stands, then get under the car and keep kicking, and turning, the wheel until finally each came free. As it has no MOT test, we couldn't drive it on the road with loose nuts to free them off, so it was the only option.
Every few days, over a couple of months, I've spent a few minutes squirting penetrating oil on all the nuts and bolts, which I think may have helped.
Then a few weeks later, I've managed to get a day on the car, so removed the subframe as follows:
Removed all the nuts and bolts from the suspension uprights, and removed them along with the lower arms. I think it's easier to undo when still attached to the car, and it makes the subframe lighter to handle. And what's with the weird track-rod ends? The ball has an off-centre mounting, so that turning the ball in the joint will adjust the tracking. I'll have to load the manual to see how to put it back together.
We took the front bumper off so that we could get at the X cross frame bolts. Seems to make it easier to get round the front of the car, and also makes it easier to clean everything nicely.
Then removed the cross-frame bolts, only one sheared off, the rest, surprisingly came out. One was so rusty that there was no thread left. That one came out really easily.
Then started on the steering rack. Out with the steering column UJ bolt, which is only 10mm, and as it's steel in aluminium I was sure it was going to shear off. It didn't. The bolt was stronger than I thought. Marked it with white paint so that it will go back on in the same place. Then undid the hydraulic hoses from the rack and let them drain. Have heard horror stories of rack mounting bolts shearing, but they all came out quite easily too. One of the hydraulic pipes gets hooked as you try and lower the rack, but keeping the rack high and a bit of twisting gets it out. Do remember the electrical connection. Oops.
Then used a piece of fence-post, and a strap to manufacture an engine support across the inner wings. Not very Jaguar, but it seems to work.
I was expecting even more grief the subframe bolts, but with care, they also all came out. The V-mounts between the subframe and the body literally fell apart. The fnece post did a good job of holding the engine, and the subframe came out on a trolley jack.
The power steering pipe was a surprise. The car has 54000 miles on it, and the pipe to the power steering has nearly rubbed through against the subframe and the air-con pipe.
Time to investigate the issue with the rattling top wishbone. Both top wishbone bolts came undone easily and were fairly easily knocked out. Nothing was seized. Then it became obvious why the left side had worked loose and enlarged the hole in the subframe. Clearly the hole in the subframe was too large from new. There was a piece of shim material pushed in the hole to take up play. I know this car's history, no one else has been in there, this was a factory 'custom' fitting job! I'm not fancying my chances on a warranty claim though.
There's rust behind the subframe in both chassis rails, so time to chop some metal out and call in the welder for both these and the floors.
I think I was quite lucky. Only one sheared bolt, and wishbone bolts that came out as they should.
Now it's all out, I'll be cleaning it all up and painting the bits. I'll see if I can find a good used subframe rather then get it machined. More pics to follow.
Last edited by oddjob2000; 05-04-2015 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Great work, and I was a bit reticent about taking the front bumper off to fit a new grill!
Currently my 1999 XK8 is in the garage having a secondhand autobox fitted and new rubbers fitted to the top link together with a new balljoint. Five of six bolts sheared in the process of removing the box so the Indy is waiting for parts, hope they come this week. If you are changing the value on your box have you a supplier in mind and do you know the cost? I would be very interested. You have obviously had more luck than me with getting bolts out, and mine has not been under a hedge for years LOL's .
Good luck with your progress, I will be looking out for future updates, and thanks for the details and pics .
Following the subframe removal, we really needed to get the bonnet closed to stop the rain getting in. The fence post used as an engine support needed to be removed. We looked at the engine and decided to support it from underneath, with a pair of legs against the engine mounts. Now it may, or may not, be a fitting end for a 100 year old oak refectory table, but the oak legs shortened and braced provided a strong enough support. Oak is a fabulous hardwood. Removing the support from above the engine takes the weight off the inner wings, and I hope means the front end won't drop or move when I cut out the rusty bits.
Oak engine support frame. AT least the bonnet closes now.
The rust in the front subframe mount area looked bad from the outside, but I wasn't expecting what I found after attacking it with an angle grinder.
Before cutting:
Left side before cutting. Slight rust?
Drilled out spot welds, ground out edges.
Final cut out on right side. Still more to cut on the base.
Jag chassis rails -reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure the manual says...
One of the floors, after being attacked with the jigsaw...
Drivers floor after jigsaw attack.
New panel made up to fit. A bit of folding and flattening and it seems to fit ok...
So that's all the rust cut-out and panels made for the floors. I call that progress. This week I hope to exchange a few more doughnuts for some 1.5mm steel to make up the inner arch panels.
Then a quick call to the mobile welder guy, bolt in the new subframe and get an MOT. Should be ready in about a week then???????
Great stuff Oddjob.
Easy to say from the comfort of an armchair, but it looks like you got off fairly lightly under the subframe. Good to see Jaguar has expended much effort here on rustproofing.
It looks to have rusted from the outside in - was there lots of cr*p wedged between the subframe and the body?
Given what we've just done to this old XK8, things have taken a slightly spooky turn...
My son has a masters in engineering, and was doing CAD support for an F1 team. He decided he wanted to be the designer, not the support guy. So he applied to and got a graduate job in one of the design teams at Jaguar Landrover.
Turns out the team he'll be joining is responsible for the left wing, inner wing and footwell for the complete JLR range.
My suggestion that I've got a pile of rusty JLR panels that I can let him have as an example of 'how not to do it' wasn't exactly received with enthusiasm, and the idea of taking a box of rust into the office on his first day was described as possibly a career limiting move!
To be fair, I think things have moved on a lot in the 16 years since my ford-built XK8 rolled off the production line. Not least is the huge investment Tata have been putting in. Looks like a great place to work now. Oh to be 18 again...
I am watching your progress with interest. I am going to have to undertake that floorpan repair in the not too distant future.
Interesting news about your son, but I do sincerely hope that the team he works with communicate with the team responsible for the right wing, inner wing and footwell!
I can't believe I picked the car up just before christmas and that it's July already!
I've finally managed to spend a whole day on the Jag, wielding a mig welder that a friend lent me, as he has no garage space for it. Useful.
Not having used a Mig before, I spent a couple of hours reading and experimenting with offcuts of steel, having previously swapped donuts for thicker 1.5mm steel offcuts again. Starting with something that looked like bird pooh dropped from a height, I did end up with a nice smooth lap joint on both the 0.9mm steel and the 1.5mm. What makes thing not quite so easy is that the MOT test here demands that the welds are visible from the outside, and are continuous. Access is not easy when the car is on axle stands in the driveway.
At some time you have to stop drinking coffee, staring at the hole in the floor and contemplating the task. You have to put on all the safety kit, have a garden hose handy just in case, and hit the car with the arc. (Having disconnected the battery first!). You can see the results in the pictures.
I used 0.9mm for the floor and two layers of 1.5mm for the chassis to try and replicate the original strength and construction. I was surprised how well the 'holes' version of spot welds worked.
Before welding the chassis, I put the vaccum cleaner into the rails. Of surprise was the number of large stones in the rails. Not a standard fitting I hope. Also, what's with the layer of flattening resin filler on the inner wing? Were they expecting Jaguar drivers to look under there and complain it wasn't flat enough?
Anyway, all the welding is now complete. Both floors and both chassis rails.
I have the new, secondhand subframe, so now just to put it back together eh?
Now, should I paint the brake calipers silver to match the wheels, red, 'cause it looks good, or British Racing Green because it's a Jag?
Hopefully it's just nuts and bolts reassembly now. Yeh right...
You are a man after my own heart ODDJOB200.
When you are driving this abandoned puppy your pride will be doubled knowing how the car was to begin with.
I too have an XK that others thought was dead. Now my pride and joy.
'I CAN FIX THAT'
Sunday August 2nd. Permission given to spend the day on the XK8.
Some steps were forwards, some were back. Feels like being a 2 year old.
On a boring TV night, which I think is most of them. I had cleaned and painted the wishbones. The top bushes looked ok on removal, but when studied carefully, were all damaged. A quick call to SNG Barratt and a new lot were on their way, complete with 10% discount for mentioning this forum.
The top wishbone bushes seemed easiest to fit if taken apart first. Then they can easily be pushed in by hand. It helps having your glamorous assistant (in this case my friendly ex-aircraft engineer, Jack) hold the wishbone for you.
Top wishbone bush taken apart.
Special tool number x45097-0854, or as we call it, 'right hand'.
Then once the bushes are fitted, simply push the bolt through the arm and subframe with the right number of shims in place. Two problems here...
Firstly, the correct shims from the old subframe clearly are not right for this subframe. AND, the manual says 8 shims, used in various configurations for setting caster depending on country. I have 3 shims. Following tea, coffee and cake, it's decided to fit the first side using the two thick shims per the old subframe. 132nm is top tightening torque.
Mistake 2, never set a torque wrench unless wearing the correct glasses. There's a big difference between 132lbf and 132nm. So much of a difference that you can crush bushes and washers and make them unuseable. Curse swear and drink more coffee. Make a note to buy more.
Refitted brake pipes. The plastic clips are very brittle, and they all broke. Ordered 16 more.
So.. moving on... fitted new V mounts to the subframe, new anti-roll (sway) bar bushes, and offered it up to the car after supporting the engine on the very technical fencepost support. Subframe went straight in.
Engine held by subframe instead of the wooden table legs. Progress.
Just one bolt hole to sort, as the bolt sheared off when undoing the cross brace. Drilled out to 12.5mm, then heli-coiled. Works like a dream.
Helicoil shortened. Must not be longer than threaded part of nut.
Helicoil tap in cross frame mount hole.
So, getting there. Too much coffee by 7pm, so shaking gently, but pleased with progress to date...
Workspace, and Jack, in the driveway on a sunny day. Complete with picnic bench for cake, coffee, sandwiches and the occasional break.
12-24-2014, 05:19 PM
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