XK8 Vacuum lines
#1
#2
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Richy, I've traced so many air leaks in my car, I was actually planning on doing a checklist and diagram showing all of the various hoses, norma connectors, and gaskets where unmetered air can get into the manifold...I just haven't done it yet. Sorry...but I'll try to work on it soon.
In the meantime, check these
1. Throttle body norma connector and o-ring
2. part load breather norma connector and o-ring, and hose. check its opening while you've got that connector off too (instructions in the FAQ also)
3. clean your MAFS (check the FAQ thread for instructions)
4. make sure your air cleaner cover is sealed properly, its easy to get the back corner jsut a little off-center when getting those goofy clamps to snap on right.
5. the oil filler neck is screwed on in my 4.2, make sure yours is tight if its the same
6. o-ring on the oil dipstick, should be there right at the base of the handle
7. if the 4.0 has a PCV valve, make sure its norma connect o-ring is not deteriorated and the line isn't crispy like potato chips...nitrile o-rings are higher quality than regular rubber.
8. the clamp and seal for the air-pipe to throttle body is not rolled and its good and tight.
In the meantime, check these
1. Throttle body norma connector and o-ring
2. part load breather norma connector and o-ring, and hose. check its opening while you've got that connector off too (instructions in the FAQ also)
3. clean your MAFS (check the FAQ thread for instructions)
4. make sure your air cleaner cover is sealed properly, its easy to get the back corner jsut a little off-center when getting those goofy clamps to snap on right.
5. the oil filler neck is screwed on in my 4.2, make sure yours is tight if its the same
6. o-ring on the oil dipstick, should be there right at the base of the handle
7. if the 4.0 has a PCV valve, make sure its norma connect o-ring is not deteriorated and the line isn't crispy like potato chips...nitrile o-rings are higher quality than regular rubber.
8. the clamp and seal for the air-pipe to throttle body is not rolled and its good and tight.
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Marsden (07-12-2012)
#3
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Richy, I've traced so many air leaks in my car, I was actually planning on doing a checklist and diagram showing all of the various hoses, norma connectors, and gaskets where unmetered air can get into the manifold...I just haven't done it yet. Sorry...but I'll try to work on it soon.
In the meantime, check these
1. Throttle body norma connector and o-ring
2. part load breather norma connector and o-ring, and hose. check its opening while you've got that connector off too (instructions in the FAQ also)
3. clean your MAFS (check the FAQ thread for instructions)
4. make sure your air cleaner cover is sealed properly, its easy to get the back corner jsut a little off-center when getting those goofy clamps to snap on right.
5. the oil filler neck is screwed on in my 4.2, make sure yours is tight if its the same
6. o-ring on the oil dipstick, should be there right at the base of the handle
7. if the 4.0 has a PCV valve, make sure its norma connect o-ring is not deteriorated and the line isn't crispy like potato chips...nitrile o-rings are higher quality than regular rubber.
8. the clamp and seal for the air-pipe to throttle body is not rolled and its good and tight.
In the meantime, check these
1. Throttle body norma connector and o-ring
2. part load breather norma connector and o-ring, and hose. check its opening while you've got that connector off too (instructions in the FAQ also)
3. clean your MAFS (check the FAQ thread for instructions)
4. make sure your air cleaner cover is sealed properly, its easy to get the back corner jsut a little off-center when getting those goofy clamps to snap on right.
5. the oil filler neck is screwed on in my 4.2, make sure yours is tight if its the same
6. o-ring on the oil dipstick, should be there right at the base of the handle
7. if the 4.0 has a PCV valve, make sure its norma connect o-ring is not deteriorated and the line isn't crispy like potato chips...nitrile o-rings are higher quality than regular rubber.
8. the clamp and seal for the air-pipe to throttle body is not rolled and its good and tight.
#6
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If you've got some throttle body cleaner in your garage, using the straw to direct the spray, try shooting a little bit at each hose connection, even along the hose if you feel it could be compromised (those plastic ribbed hoses are easy to crack, and never see it by eye), and listen for idle speed changes. Even simpler if you can watch the data live on a scanner, your short term trims will drop (towards the negative side = rich) 5-8% within a couple seconds if there's a vacuum leak there, check out this video of me hunting a throttle body gasket leak.
#7
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cleaned MAF and throttle body,added SEafoam to gas,replaced air filter, cheked dipstick o-ring....still have cel....will this eventually shut off?
dealer is inept...keeps fixing problem with no result.....dealer is only game in town.
not sure where all the vacuum lines are to do carb cleaner test
2001 XK8 conv....90000 miles...owned since new...beautiful car,fun....but tempermental
also have 2002 XJ8....50000 miles.....beautiful and reliable
dealer is inept...keeps fixing problem with no result.....dealer is only game in town.
not sure where all the vacuum lines are to do carb cleaner test
2001 XK8 conv....90000 miles...owned since new...beautiful car,fun....but tempermental
also have 2002 XJ8....50000 miles.....beautiful and reliable
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#8
#9
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New here. Did the vacuum leak write up appear? Keep looking for leaks but can't find it. Seems to be intermittent too. Car doesn't stumble when revved in park only under load.
Does this model have the imt o ring issue I've read elsewhere? Or brake line o ring seal issue?
Frustrating that I can't find it....appreciate any help
Does this model have the imt o ring issue I've read elsewhere? Or brake line o ring seal issue?
Frustrating that I can't find it....appreciate any help
#11
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you've got some throttle body cleaner in your garage, using the straw to direct the spray, try shooting a little bit at each hose connection, even along the hose if you feel it could be compromised (those plastic ribbed hoses are easy to crack, and never see it by eye), and listen for idle speed changes. Even simpler if you can watch the data live on a scanner, your short term trims will drop (towards the negative side = rich) 5-8% within a couple seconds if there's a vacuum leak there, check out this video of me hunting a throttle body gasket leak.
Vacuum leak detection using Torque - YouTube
Vacuum leak detection using Torque - YouTube
Also a perfect example of something I try to convey to people all the time. Unless you are in the middle of a fueling diagnosis of some sort, forget the short term fuel trim; pay attention to the long term fuel trim. The short term will ALWAYS bounce around during normal engine operation. The long term fuel trim is what is telling the overall story.
Cheers,
#13
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Recently I replaced the gaskets at the water fill/ thermostat neck and of course, had to remove the intake manifold. I cleaned the intake manifold and engine surfaces and replaced the intake gaskets . Now that it is repaired, the car does not leak water and is also running better than I remember. Did it that fix a vacuum leak? I have done about everything to repair vacuum leaks with O-rings but this has been a huge improvement.
Dave Warner
2000 VDP Red/Tan. 250K Mi.
Dave Warner
2000 VDP Red/Tan. 250K Mi.
#14
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