xkr EGR removal ?
#1
xkr EGR removal ?
hi guys,
my 2001 xkr has thrown a fault code that I believe is the egr.
Im not a fan of the concept of putting dirty burnt exhaust gasses back into my inlet all in the interest of polar bears. So is there any way of removing/ blanking the egr off all together without it casing the mil light to come on?
thanks,
craig
my 2001 xkr has thrown a fault code that I believe is the egr.
Im not a fan of the concept of putting dirty burnt exhaust gasses back into my inlet all in the interest of polar bears. So is there any way of removing/ blanking the egr off all together without it casing the mil light to come on?
thanks,
craig
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Tiepolo (08-11-2023)
#2
Whatever you do, the throttle body has to come off. But what is the code? There have been instances where the the bolts have become loose, and I have observed this myself.
You can't just remove it and blank off the hole, the ECM needs to know it's there and functioning, so replacing it is the best option.
Also inspect the tube from the manifold to the valve, it may be cracked and leaking.
You can't just remove it and blank off the hole, the ECM needs to know it's there and functioning, so replacing it is the best option.
Also inspect the tube from the manifold to the valve, it may be cracked and leaking.
#4
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dr_jekyll (12-21-2014)
#5
I must have thrown the old one out. Below is the pdf for testing the egr valve. It gives resistance values across the pins, but the one I removed and the new replacement were lower values, so it may not be very fussy.
A new valve from rockauto.com was $170, and considering the amount of work involved in getting to it, maybe replacement is the best choice, but like I mentioned, cleaning may be all that's required. My XJ6 had a egr code and that's all I had to do, but that one is easy to access.
I could not include the pdf, not smart enough, I guess. It's in the JTIS21: DTC 0400 pinpoint tests.
Resistance between pins 04&06,01&03 greater than 80 ohms
pins 02&03, 05&06 less than 80 ohms
I think I had around 50 ohms for the ones I tested.
A new valve from rockauto.com was $170, and considering the amount of work involved in getting to it, maybe replacement is the best choice, but like I mentioned, cleaning may be all that's required. My XJ6 had a egr code and that's all I had to do, but that one is easy to access.
I could not include the pdf, not smart enough, I guess. It's in the JTIS21: DTC 0400 pinpoint tests.
Resistance between pins 04&06,01&03 greater than 80 ohms
pins 02&03, 05&06 less than 80 ohms
I think I had around 50 ohms for the ones I tested.
Last edited by RJ237; 12-21-2014 at 07:25 AM. Reason: add pdf info
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cjd777 (12-21-2014)
#7
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JimC64 (12-22-2014)
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#8
#9
I had the same issue on my 02 XKR. Turned out to be a slight crack in the ribbed part of the EGR tube that was only visible once I removed it.
I would suggest not blocking off the EGR, as in my experience the XKR is sensitive to changes on the intake side and will throw codes easily. My understanding is that the EGR is actually beneficial for lowering the intake temps on supercharged vehicles, too.
It is not too difficult if you take the time to remove the TB first.
I would suggest not blocking off the EGR, as in my experience the XKR is sensitive to changes on the intake side and will throw codes easily. My understanding is that the EGR is actually beneficial for lowering the intake temps on supercharged vehicles, too.
It is not too difficult if you take the time to remove the TB first.
#11
There were two versions of EGR:
1. 4.0 engines didn't have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. So blanking off the exhaust manifold and EGR valve's inlet should be ok for successfull EGR removal. The valve has to be still plugged in.
2. Some 4.2 engines did have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. In this case EGR removal is doable but more complicated - to cheat the sensor we have to route extra duct from intake pipe (between MAF and TB) and plug it to EGR valve so it sucks fresh air from intake pipe and elbow sensor is happy
Last edited by Krajcok; 01-01-2015 at 01:48 PM.
#12
#13
Not exactly.
There were two versions of EGR:
1. 4.0 engines didn't have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. So blanking off the exhaust manifold and EGR valve's inlet should be ok for successfull EGR removal. The valve has to be still plugged in.
2. Some 4.2 engines did have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. In this case EGR removal is doable but more complicated - to cheat the sensor we have to route extra duct from intake pipe (between MAF and TB) and plug it to EGR valve so it sucks fresh air from intake pipe and elbow sensor is happy
There were two versions of EGR:
1. 4.0 engines didn't have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. So blanking off the exhaust manifold and EGR valve's inlet should be ok for successfull EGR removal. The valve has to be still plugged in.
2. Some 4.2 engines did have additional vacuum sensor in intake elbow. In this case EGR removal is doable but more complicated - to cheat the sensor we have to route extra duct from intake pipe (between MAF and TB) and plug it to EGR valve so it sucks fresh air from intake pipe and elbow sensor is happy
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