Hello all!

I'm sure it's probably one of the most troubling issues on the forums for the Jaguar XK8, but this recent hydraulic issue has me perplexed. The issue is this: Whenever the convertible top is closed, about an inch from the claw, all goes wrong. The claw grips, then seemingly releases, as evidenced by this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2HO...ature=youtu.be

If I close the claw manually with a T-50 (or an Allen key) the problem occurs in the reverse manner. The latch cylinder tries to open, but fails, tries to open, fails, then on some odd and even occurrences, will open harshly and the lowering of the top sequence will resume normally.

I've read over much prior posts and materials, from Gus Glikas' hydraulic diagnostic procedures to other members' experiences, to even going to the Jaguar tech experts at my Dealer...

I had my local Jag dealer diagnose the issue. The shop foreman recommended:

• Replace the ENTIRE convertible top latch assembly (Part HJE8226AB)
• Replace top latch cylinder (Part HJD8243AA)

They said the latch cylinder itself was old, shot seals, and possibly clogged (requiring replacement), and the "claw" that hooks the top needed replacing, as well as the wires which run through it, frayed. I understand the car is nearly 20 years old, and any system after that amount of time and use breaks down.

Astonishingly, the price for the dealer to replace all these components with new stock was $7,200.00, so in my own time, I instead:

• Lubricated very lightly the latch mechanism with WD-40...yes it's a solvent, not designed for lubricating
• Replaced the ENTIRE convertible top latch assembly myself with a used good quality replacement I found online
• Replaced both hydraulic hoses feeding into the latch cylinder with brand new ones by Top Hydraulics (these run all the way under the car interior to the pump in the boot)
• Had the top latch cylinder re-manufactured by Klaus at Top Hydraulics
• Tried another used good quality replacement top latch cylinder I found online, and the problem remained identical
• Used the Allen wrench...well actually a T-50 (same size) to run the latch claw up and down in an effort to free it up
• Filled the hydraulic pump with fluid CHF-11S to the recommended upper level as outlined by Gus on his website
• Charged the battery and ran the top system with the car on and idling

I should also note the top assembly does NOT leak from the latch area (but used to in the past before the new latch hoses were installed), and all the proper cables and hoses seem plugged in accordingly. I don't believe the hoses to the top cylinder are reversed because Top Hydraulics marked them so well. So far, my thoughts linger to the pump or pump solenoids as the culprit to blame, the security control module, a crazy relay or fuse somewhere, or even the right hand side, cylinder sensor behind the RH speaker assembly, but I have no proof to substantiate any of this, and it's really only a wild guess on my part. However, I don't see how any of the top assembly components, hoses, or cylinders could be to blame, since I replaced/had Top Hydraulics re-manufactured them all.

Really, I was hoping for some feedback from forum members as to what might be causing this problem.

Thanks for any help or suggestions you all can provide!







At least I put more use on a Land Rover than the Jag. That's the silver lining.

 

Sorry to hear the problem persists even though you’ve done ALOT of work. You obviously know your stuff

I’ve a few questions.
1. Have you checked the small top relays in the trunk and the brittle wire connections at the pump?
2. Does the latch operate smoothly in full manual mode ie using the Allen Key with pump peacock turned?

My latch was sticky when I got the car 2 years ago and just like you I used WD40 to try and free it up. It eventually took a little tweak of the steel plates beside the latch claw that finally did the trick for me. Then it moved freely using the Allen key. Worth a look.

With all the work you’ve done, I would suspect now the electrics esp the switches and look closely at the pump.

 

Just FYI, the latch can be rebuilt for $175, I too went to the dealer and if I recall correctly the latch is $1100.

 

Thanks for both of you all writing in. I just tried moving the latch up and down again, and it seemed to operate smoothly by hand. I will take a further look at the pump and report back my findings David.

Jacob, I replaced the whole convertible top latch assembly, and I've been able to try them one after another. Lol, I have gotten really good at taking the assembly apart and back together from pulling the latch cylinder out with the "clovis pin." And I too was surprised at the cost of the latch assembly! I found it from Terry's Jag for over $3000 alone! The price has gone up maybe?

I'll keep you all apprised what I find in the coming days. Thanks!

 

Yeah, I went to the dealer when I first bought the car and found out the hoses were leaking, invoice was in the neighborhood of $4500 including the $1100 latch, the terrible Indy shop I had replace the hoses didn't do the latch, which I had sent off to be rebuilt at a later date. Best of luck