I have had a rumbling rattle coming from the torque converter area on idle for a while... Pistnbroke has been very helpful on here and suggested the trans fluid level might be low.

So I think I did the procedure correctly -
Lifted car, level.
Ran though J-Gate positions and got the trans sump up to 35 deg C. Removed the fill plug with engine running and expected either no fluid to emerge, meaning low level, or a trickle meaning correct level.

About a liter gushed out!
I let it slow to something like a trickle before refitting the plug. But now the rattle seems worse and I'm worried I've drained too much out or something...

Was it overfilled and could that have caused something in the Torque converter to break and rattle?

I'm not sure what to do now... :-/

 

I can't think of anything inside the torque converter that would rattle unless there is a broken clutch disk or other damaged part. In any case, oil level is not going to affect it. If you followed correct procedure, and it sounds like you did, you need to get the rattle diagnosed by an expert, it's not the oil level. The transmission fills the converter with its own oil pump at the front of the tranny, if it was sucking the tranny dry to fill the converter, the tranny would not work.

 

I had the idential grind to the OP ...Drained 3.6litre,new filter ,filled with 6. Grind noise gone ...I put it down to the pump fighting for fluid.
I have sent you a message but having thought about it you have only done half a job ...you should change the filter it could be blocked and leaving the pump fighting for fluid .,, If filter is blocked there will be too much fluid in the sump and not enough in the transmission so it grinds . My filter , German ( watch for Chinese crap which can cause bad noises ) was £20 and the 6l fluid about £36 though I have seen kits at £125 +
So from what I read about bad filters that is your next job. The filter looks like this ...

 

Hi,
It sounds like you've inherited an overfill - possibly when the T/C was replaced? Do you have any idea what fluid was used? Is this the grating sound you reported some time back?

 

read my lips " the filter is blocked"

 

Haha well you haven't told me a lie so far so filter and fluid change today if I can get them in! Fingers Crossed....

 

Yes, same grating sound. I think you're right... it's obviously been maintained in the past... just not by a Jag person. Roof pump fluid had been changed but was wrong type, Metal tensioners - Check. Upgraded coolant tower - check.
And now the bright purple torque converter and overfilled trans. Hopefully no damage has been done, I'll get the pan off and have a look today :-/

 

Note you will need a not-so-common T27 torx for the pan bolts unless they've been updated with T40. If you're not in a rush then give them a squirt of PB Blaster or similar and leave for a while. Look for metal slivers, etc. in the pan as you clean it out to gain an idea of the trans state

The OE filter is made by Filtran: Jag. part # JLM20216, LandRover is LPW000030. The landy parts used to be cheaper, but I've just checked and there's very little in it now.

 

Thanks - I just checked - T27 which I luckily have!

I am in a bit of a rush I've just ordered a filter and gasket from O'reilys, It's listed fro 5hp24 so fingers crossed (doing a lot of that!). All with a mind to replacing it with a higher quality filter soon if it does turn out to be causing the problem...

 

If it's made in Germany it will be ok. let us know the brand when you get it . make sure it has a rubber ring on the bit that engages the gearbox. If its made in China don't even fit it as these are already blocked when new due to the wrong filter material. YHBW.

 

Hi Dickiederson,

Sorry to join your thread late. I like Pistonbroke's theory that your filter is obstructed.

Regarding setting the fluid level, how are you measuring fluid temperature? The easiest fairly accurate method is with WDS/IDS/SDD or a scan tool capable of reading the transmission fluid temperature via Live Data. If you use a digital thermomoter with remote probe or an infrared thermometer, be sure to measure the fluid emerging from the pan and not the pan itself, which can give a false reading.

I am attaching the revised fluid fill instructions. Note that setting the fluid level at 30°C results in the maximum correct level.

Cheers,

Don

 

Well we dont know from Dickerson what the brand of filter was . I recently watched a video of the 5 speed being dismantled and when the guy got to the replace the filter bit he went well OTT about fitting a genuine/german filter as he quoted fitting chinese ones and having to replace because the gearbox was noisy...
My box had exactly the same noise as dickersons but it faded almost to nothing when warm . I dont lnow how long dickersons was running noisy but it could have damaged the pump and its too late .... Did you have any debris in the sump ? mine was just a touch of grey on the magnets . I did add Dr Tranny

 

Yup. Pay right money for the filter and as mentioned,,, a German made filter. Can't remember the name of the company... Then, the rings and the fitting the pick-up is important...

EDIT: I may be wrong in thinking about an Oring on the filter (I believe there is on though) as I was thinking about me XJS filter set up...

 

This is the correct German brand to use ...

 

Yup. And ZF I believe also makes a filter/kit. Spend the money (I'm a penny pincher) but in the case of a transmission,,, 20 or 30 extra bucks - penny wise pound,,,, well, you get the idea. Save the buck or two somewhere else.

 

Hey there sorry for the delay,

What a horrible job - it would be much easier with a proper lift I'm sure or at least not working under 10" ramps - it's lucky I'm skinny... :-/
I checked the temp off the trans sump with an IR thermometer. It was 31 deg when I started and getting to 40 by the time I had filled it.

So the filter change hasn't Made much of a difference to my rattle - there was some grey sludge on the magnets and the fluid was a bit murky but I couldn't smell any burning. The filter was just the one I could get in a rush on the weekend so I'm sure it's not great - it's branded "Power Torque" from OReilys and I can't find any other informations about them.

So in two minds now whether to do another fluid and filter change with better materials or just biting the bullet and taking it in somewhere when I can...

The car drives pretty well except I now keep getting a 'Stability Control Fail' message and ABS light - I just changed the battery and I thought that had solved it but it popped up again last night.

The rattle itself will start once the idle has calmed down after starting up... it varies the load is placed on with AC or lights and even reacts when a door is (Slammed by my wife) closed. For a while I convinced myself it was a catalytic converter going bad but when I get under there it does seem to be the torque converter...

I know the correct thing to do is just to take it to a Jag shop but I have a stubborn attitude about these things and an empty wallet (I Know, I know - it will cost more in the long run....!).

 

I too had that nasty rattle that sounded like failed baffles in the exhaust ...Cheap way is to drain out the fluid to reuse it and get a filter as described in my post.
These filters you fitted are made by Fram some are made in china ...oops

 

Good idea! I'll order the best filter parts. I'm moving house next month, then I'll have a nice double car garage and be able to cycle to work....! I'm going to try and make it that long so I can do the job in a bit more comfort next time, plus I can see how much the magnets are covered after a few hundred miles and what condition the fluid is in - I'll have to wait until my wife is asleep... she just doesn't seem to understand lol

 

The fastest way to diagnose ABS issues is usually with a scan tool that can read the Chassis (C-prefix) and Network (U-prefix) diagnostic trouble codes. There are lots of possible causes, but probably the most common are a failing ABS wheel speed sensor, a broken wire in a wheel speed sensor harness, or broken solder joints on the ABS Control Module circuit board, especially the joints at the large pins for the electric pump connector. All three problems can cause intermittent ABS faults, and any ABS fault will disable Stability Control.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don! Yeah it started when I jacked the car up and had the wheels off the ground so I’m guessing I’ll start at the wheel speed sensors… looks like I have a front bearing on the way out too 🤦‍♂️. But I should invest in a decent scanner as I only have a basic code reader at the moment 👍